John Day Fossil Beds National Monument

A premier national monument in eastern Oregon, preserving over 14,000 acres of vividly colored badlands, world-class fossil beds, and unique geologic formations. Explore ancient ecosystems preserved from 44 to 7 million years ago, through miles of scenic trails, stunning viewpoints, and immersive visitor centers.

Overview

John Day Fossil Beds National Monument is a vast outdoor museum preserving an unparalleled record of Cenozoic life and environments. The monument encompasses three separate units—Sheep Rock, Painted Hills, and Clarno—each showcasing unique geology, fossils, and landscapes from different chapters of Earth’s history.
  • The monument protects plant and animal fossils spanning 44 million to 7 million years ago, covering most of the Age of Mammals and Flowering Plants.
  • It offers insight into ancient climates, ecosystems, and volcanic activity that shaped the northwest United States.
  • The monument is managed by the National Park Service and is located in a rural area of eastern Oregon, with limited cell service and no fossil collecting allowed for the public.

Geology & Fossils

John Day Fossil Beds preserves some of the best fossil-bearing rock formations in the world, providing snapshots of prehistoric life over tens of millions of years.

Geologic History

  • The region’s geology records volcanic eruptions, river floods, and changing climates that buried plants and animals in layers of ash and sediment.
  • Each unit preserves different fossil and rock formations, from the volcanic Clarno Formation to the vividly layered Painted Hills and fossil-rich formations near Sheep Rock.
  • The monument’s badlands display colorful bentonite clays, ancient soils, and volcanic rocks that tell stories of ancient forests, lakes, and cataclysmic eruptions.

Fossil Discoveries

  • Fossils include extinct mammals such as brontotheres, three-toed horses, saber-tooth cats, and plant species that document evolving ecosystems.
  • The Clarno Unit has the oldest exposed layers, with fossils directly visible along trails; the Sheep Rock Unit features a visitor center with extensive fossil displays.
  • The site does not contain dinosaur fossils, as the region was underwater during the age of dinosaurs; instead, it focuses on mammals and plants from after their extinction.

Main Units & Scenic Highlights

The monument is divided into three main units, each with its own geology, fossils, and scenic beauty.

Sheep Rock Unit

  • Home to the Thomas Condon Visitor Center, which offers comprehensive fossil exhibits, geology displays, and trailhead access.
  • The Cant Ranch Museum interprets pioneer history and offers hiking trails with spectacular views of the John Day River and surrounding formations.
  • Trails such as the Scenic Gorge Trail and Foree Trail provide immersive experiences of the monument’s unique geology and scenery.

Painted Hills Unit

  • Famous for its vividly colored hills, with red, ochre, and gold layers representing ancient soils and changing climate conditions.
  • Scenic trails and overlooks like Painted Cove Trail, Painted Dunes Overlook, and Carroll Rim Trail highlight the beauty and geology of the area.
  • The Painted Hills Picnic Area offers a shaded rest stop with restroom facilities and interpretive panels.

Clarno Unit

  • Features the oldest exposed rock layers in the monument—Clarno Formation—visible as twisted, jumbled cliffs and unique fossil sites.
  • The Clarno Palisades Trail leads visitors to spectacular fossil and rock formations, showcasing ancient flood and volcanic debris.
  • Fossils are visible along the trail, though collecting is strictly prohibited.

Visitor Information

John Day Fossil Beds offers several ways for visitors to explore the monument’s scenery, history, and fossils.

Visitor Centers & Museums

  • The Thomas Condon Visitor Center is the main hub for orientation, fossils, and geology exhibits, located in the Sheep Rock Unit.
  • The Cant Ranch Museum presents the history of early settlers and ranching in the John Day Basin.

Hiking & Exploration

  • Each unit offers hiking trails ranging from easy walks to moderate hikes that explore fossil sites, colorful hills, and unique rock formations.
  • Popular hikes include the Blue Basin Loop Trail, Foree Trail, Cant Ranch Loop Trail, and Clarno Palisades Trail.

Planning Your Visit

  • There is no cell phone service within the monument except for public Wi-Fi at the Thomas Condon Visitor Center and Painted Hills Picnic Area.
  • Fuel and food are available in nearby towns such as Dayville, Spray, Fossil, and Mitchell.
  • The monument is best enjoyed from spring through fall, with some trails possibly affected by weather in winter.

Ecology and Human History

The John Day Fossil Beds area reflects millions of years of changing ecosystems and human presence in the region.

Ancient Ecosystems

  • Fossils document subtropical forests, grasslands, volcanic activity, and the animals that lived through these changes.
  • The evolving plant and animal fossils provide evidence of climate change and environmental shifts over millions of years.

Native Peoples

  • The area lies within lands traditionally used by Confederated Tribes of the Umatilla Indian Reservation, Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs, and other Native American groups.
  • Indigenous peoples have longstanding cultural ties to the region, hunting, gathering, and living in the John Day River basin long before European settlement.

Additional Resources

John Day Fossil Beds National Monument offers a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to walk through ancient landscapes, observe fossils in their native rock formations, and enjoy some of Oregon’s most colorful geology and natural beauty. Whether you’re a fossil enthusiast, geology buff, or nature lover, the John Day Fossil Beds will ignite your curiosity about Earth’s deep past.

Links

Hours

  • Monday: 10:00 AM – 4:00 PM
  • Tuesday: Closed
  • Wednesday: Closed
  • Thursday: 10:00 AM – 4:00 PM
  • Friday: 10:00 AM – 4:00 PM
  • Saturday: 10:00 AM – 4:00 PM
  • Sunday: 10:00 AM – 4:00 PM

Last updated: Sat Jun 7, 2025

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